‘Every Chef Must Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.